Day 6 – Khumjung to Tengboche

Today we hiked from Khumjung to Tengboche which is at about 12,500 ft. It was a couple hour down hill walk to the river valley. Walking down is nice, but hard on the knees and the other thing is you have to go back up. We went down about 2,000 ft and stopped for lunch by the river. The skies were blue and the sun warm there. I could have sat there for a long long time as it was relaxing. However, it was time to go and head up another 2,000 ft to the Tengboche monastery. It was several hours of up hill climbing. Probably the first time I started to get really tired from the hike.

The view along the way very amazing. We are really in the Himalayas now. 20,000 a 28,000 ft. Mountains to your left and right. These mountain are anywhere from 6,000 – 14,000 ft higher than any mountain in the continental US and that does not include Everest which is 15,000 ft higher than any US mountain. I have posted some pics but I assure you they do not capture the magnitude nor the beauty. Trying to decide what the post is about impossible.

Once we reached the peak where the Tengboche monastery – there it was – my first view of Everest. I was so excited as we have been trekking for 6 days and haven’t seen it yet. It almost felt like you had arrived, but as close as Everest looked we are still 5 days away from base camp. We will be arrive at EBC on April 13. Things are much larger and farer than they appear.

Michelle asked me to explain that I am not on Everest yet. You can’t just arrive at Everest. You have to hike through the Khumbhu valley for anywhere from 7-12 days depending on your skill and experience with altitude. We are taking it slow as not to get sick. Good plan. Everest is very remote and you have to earn the view and chance to be here. I like that. No short cuts as this isn’t some tour.

Our tea house for the night was just below the monastery by the river in a very remote location. The view from the tea house is unbelievable of Everest and Lhotse (28,000 ft). It looks fake it is so picturesque. I sat outside the tea house for 2 hours just staring up and watching the clouds float by. The close ups i posted are of Everest and Lohse. Everest on left and lhotse on the right. I sat with the climbers and Sherpas and talked about the routes up the mountain. This is starting to get serious for the climbers. They were observing the winds on the summit and estimating that they were over 100 miles an hour. Not climbable as high winds kill due to the cold. They still have another 4-6 weeks to summit so time for the trade winds to die down. Serious stuff. We watched until the sun went down and until the cold really creeped in. I started to get really cold and could not help but think how cold base camp was going to be. I got some hot tea to warm up.

Tonight at the tea house is crazy. The NBC / Discovery Channel film crew is staying here along with the man who is going to jump off Everest in a flying wing suite for a live tv show on discovery. His name is Joby. It was kind of cool being in the same small tea house. I actually think we will follow each other up the rest of the way as the same climbing company, alpine ascents, is guiding him and his crew as well as my group. There are about 50 of us here so it is definitely the most lively night.

Tomorrow is another big day. We are going to begin to get in the real altitudes. Around 14,200 tomorrow and then 16,200 in 2 days. To put this in perspective the highest mountain in the continental US is 14,500. We will see how it goes. Some of the other Trekkers in our sister group are already getting sick. Not good to hear. Staying heathy is my top priority.

By the way. The big pointy mountain isn’t Everest. It is the more flat looking one in the close up and with the clouds around it. It is to the left side. It is an optical illusion that the others are taller. Everest is just to the back.

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